Thursday, 23 September 2010
London Fashion Week: NewGen - Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou first came to my attention when she sent elaborate baroque style prints down the catwalk for Autumn Winter 2010 in the last London Fashion Week. A collection of trompe l'oeil printed tee shirts for Topshop released shortly afterward sold out probably before anyone knew they went on sale, snapped up no doubt by that mysterious bunch of fashion conscious people who always seem to be in the know about collaborations like these ahead of the rest of us.
Her collection for Spring Summer 2011 is inspired by interior decoration - literally. Interestingly Katrantzou was formerly an interiors textile designer. Trompe l'oeil prints, garment shapes, trims and accessories played with the theme of how we adorn the interiors of our living spaces, contrasted with the views through our windows.
The elaborate prints depict flowers in vases of which the petals sometimes protrude from the garment. Beading is used to outline the patterns of tiles on a floor or forms the crystals of a chandelier.
Upholstery is alluded to not just in the prints but in the garment's construction. Side panels sewn into the skirts of dresses are cut to drape like curtains waiting to be drawn, or, as seen in the third image, pleated folds of the top part of a curtain adorning a bodice melt into a print of its bottom half. Shoulder lines of dresses stand stiff like curtain pelmets. And then there are the elaborately embellished lampshade skirts with ornate bead and tassel fringing.
Even the accessories run with the interiors theme including this amazing and very large statement chandelier necklace!